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Mexico: Ritual flying in magical town Cuetzalan

In this ancient ritual the Mexican flying dancers – Voladores – show off their Mesoamerican cultural heritage.

Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
In the tropical region of Cuetzalan, Voladores fly weekly in front of the church to show off the ritual to tourists and villagers. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
By Sanne Derks
Published On 9 Aug 2017

Cuetzalan, Mexico – In 2009, the Danza de los Voladores, or Dance of the Flyers, was recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, the UN agency responsible for education, science and culture. It is a pre-Colombian, Mesoamerican ceremony that is still practised in very few areas of Mexico.

The ceremony is a rain and fertility dance seeking harmony between the ancient gods and the earth and its people. The performers dance around a 30-metre-high pole, then climb atop it. The flyers representing four elements – water, wind, earth and fire – perform a ritualised greeting to the four cardinal directions and fling themselves off while attached to ropes, spiralling down as the platform to which their ropes are attached slowly unwinds and lowers them to the ground. One person remains on top of the pole playing a flute, beating a drum and dancing.

The ritual has since been adapted to be performed during Catholic ceremonies and is also performed for tourists. 

Cuetzalan village was named as one of Mexico’s first Magical Towns in 2002 by the Mexican National Department of Tourism. The programme was introduced to encourage local tourism. Villages can request a nomination if they meet certain criteria in historical, cultural and natural elements.

The status has brought much-needed publicity, tourists and funding. More tourists generate more donations and with the municipal funding, the Flyers can request new embroidered suits, that cost between 4,500 and 6,000 Mexican pesos each (around $250-$300).

This has also generated interest among local children in becoming Flyers themselves, which will ensure that the tradition lives on. 

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Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
The ceremonies are often dynamic and new figures such as the eagle-man emerge to make the dance even more spectacular. Luis Arturo Diaz Rivera joined the group 10 years ago and wears the eagle-man costume for the flying dance. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
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Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
The ritual flyers climb up a wooden stepladder to the top of the pole. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
Enrique Roque Hernandez Gomez has been captain of his flying dancer group for 35 years. For him an UNESCO nomination is irrelevant: 'We flew already for centuries, so nothing changed,' he says. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
Although the dance originates from pre-Colombian times, it is also performed for Catholic religious ceremonies. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
Most dancers are honoured to fly and say they enjoy the adrenaline and freedom they experience while flying. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
Gregorio Antonio Morales, the leader of one flying group, says the dancers find meaning in the responsibility of transmitting the cultural heritage of their ancestors. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
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Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
During the weekly staged performances, the local dance groups take turns to perform. After a performance, they ask for a donation to buy drinks or save up for a new embroidered dancing costume. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
The Flyers are invited to perform during celebrations in neighbouring villages. The village of Xilocochico 8km away invited the dancers for a performance during their annual celebration for the saint Mary Help of Christians - Maria Auxiliadora. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
In this indigenous region, other traditional dance groups are also invited to dance during religious processions. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
During the religious celebration, there is no schedule and several groups come to fly, as a form of entertainment, respect or out of devotion. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
For the dancers of Cuetzalan, the trip to the neighbouring village of Xilocochico is also an excursion for pleasure and personal enjoyment. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
The ritual is passed on from father to son. On smaller poles the children learn to tie the knots and the flying techniques. At the age of nine they are allowed to formally join a local dance group. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
The little Voladores watch their elders fly. It is their biggest dream as children to learn to fly. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]
Under the wings of Unesco: Ritual flying in magical Cuetzalan/ Please Do Not Use
Until about ten years ago, women were not allowed to join the flying dancer groups due to the superstition that women would cause accidents. But things are changing. Luis Arturo Diaz Rivera, the eagle-man, taught his wife to fly and would love to see his daughter Yojuani flying. [Sanne Derks/Al Jazeera]