Kami Rita and fellow Sherpa guide Pasang Dawa have been competing for the title of most climbs of Everest.
Climbers say several of the 17 people killed or missing and presumed dead this season could have avoided the disaster.
Gelje Sherpa found the Malaysian hanging from a rope in an area where temperatures can dip below minus 30C.
Nepal’s mountains captivate both adventurers and tourists and bring a vital lifeline to surrounding villages.