'I do not know how many days are left'
How a pause in Yemen’s war let the sons of a retired builder in Sanaa earn money for their father’s Hajj pilgrimage before his eyesight gets too bad.
What’s your money worth? A series from the front line of the cost-of-living crisis, where people who have been hit hard share their monthly expenses.
Name: Mahmoud
Age: 65
Occupation: Former builder
Lives with: His wife Salma* (60), and his two sons, Ali (28) and Yasser (32) and their families.
Lives in: A 15 by 15-metre house in al-Thawra district, in central Sanaa, Yemen’s capital. The single-storey house owned by the family is divided into two apartments, each containing three rooms, a kitchen, and two restrooms. Mahmoud and his wife live in one apartment with their youngest son, Ali, his wife Hasna*, and their two children, Abdulrahman, 4, and Haifa, 2.
Yasser, his wife Jamila*, and their four children live in the second apartment.
Monthly household income: Mahmoud retired five years ago, and his sons Yasser and Ali support the two households. Yasser owns a minibus and makes a living driving passengers. He earns between 130,000 Yemeni riyals ($236)** and 165,000 Yemeni riyals ($300) a month. Ali, who also owns his own vehicle, is a taxi driver and earns between 100,000 Yemeni riyals ($180) and 122,000 Yemeni riyals ($220). Their combined monthly earnings range between $416 and $520.
Total expenses for the month: About 165,000 Yemeni riyals ($300) go towards living expenses. For the past year, any remaining income was saved for Mahmoud’s Hajj journey.
*Names have been changed at the request of the family
Mahmoud spent 30 years working in a job that he loved: construction.
When he was in his 20s, Mahmoud worked as a daily wage labourer on building sites around Sanaa. He used to carry concrete blocks and sacks of cement and perform other tasks. One of his responsibilities was handing concrete blocks to a builder. By watching and helping the builder, Mahmoud learned how spaces were measured, and how to construct a building.
“After a few months of practice, I became a reliable builder. As time went by, my skills improved, and I grew professional. Out of that job, I was able to feed my family, buy a plot of land, and build my house,” says Mahmoud with a sense of contentment.
Today, Mahmoud feels proud when he sees the houses, shops and walls he built in different neighbourhoods. “I feel my job makes a difference.”
Most days, he worked in Sanaa, but he also travelled around Yemen, to Hodeidah province in the west and Ibb further south. Mahmoud recalls how energetic he was.
“Even if I were called at midnight to work, I would not hesitate,” he reflects, running a hand over his clipped white beard.
But when he turned 60, he no longer felt able to sustain such long hours. He decided to retire and his sons, Ali and Yasser, became responsible for the family’s financial needs.
These days, Mahmoud wakes at 4.30am and prays at the mosque, where he remains until 6am. Then he returns home for coffee and breakfast, after which he takes a walk through the neighbourhood, stopping to chat with people he meets along the way. There are more prayers at the mosque at noon, followed by lunch at home with his wife and children, and family visits in the afternoon.
Today, at 65, Mahmoud feels grateful for the life that he has led. But for a long time, he has wanted to fulfil one last dream: performing Hajj. “I do not know how many days are left for me,” he explains solemnly, staring at the white wall of the majlis, the guest room in his home. “So I want to go for Hajj before my departure.”
Deciding to perform Hajj
Over the last three years, Mahmoud’s eyesight has begun to worsen and he says his glasses do little to help. He now struggles to see things a few metres away. A little over a year ago, he told his sons about his desire to make the pilgrimage to Mecca before his eyesight got too bad.
At the time, Mahmoud had 1,050,000 Yemeni riyals ($1,900) in savings at home, but he needed about double that amount for the Hajj fees and travel expenses.
Ali and Yasser say it was their duty to help their father. “My happiness lies in seeing my father happy,” Ali says. “I cannot imagine ignoring his pain or refusing to meet his needs.”
His sons started working longer hours, and occasionally on weekends. Most days, Ali works from 8am until 8pm, but in the past year has found himself never saying “no” to customers and working later if needed. Still, they worried they would not be able to save enough.
“It [saving money] was like a battle for me, and I had to win it. I did not want to disappoint my father,” Ali explains.
The families stopped buying non-essential items. They used to buy sweets four days a week and goat meat twice a week but they cut back on these costs, only occasionally buying from the butcher. More recently, they stopped taking the children to the park, a weekly outing that would cost 11,000 Yemeni riyals ($20) due to the fuel needed to get there, and the snacks and ice creams they would buy. “Going to the park makes our children happy, but if they do not go, they will not be sick or hungry,” Ali explains.
Some costs like formula milk went up, putting pressure on the brothers who both have babies. Still, some things helped, like the price of flour falling.
Mahmoud’s sons were able to save enough money in just a year. “Ali gave me $900 and Yasser $1,100,” Mahmoud explains with a smile.
“My goal of going to Hajj is finally attainable,” he adds.
“I applied for Hajj for the first time this year, and my name was selected. God answered my prayer and granted me this happiness.”
A calm year
In the past year, there has been a de-escalation in hostilities between the warring parties in Yemen’s civil war.
The Iran-allied Houthi rebels and the Saudi-backed Yemeni government signed a truce in April 2022 and extended it until October. It was the first ceasefire since the war started in 2015 and since the armistice officially ended, the two sides have not returned to all-out war. The cessation in fighting has brought priceless relief to Yemenis, including Mahmoud’s family.
The period of calm helped Ali and Yasser, who both rely on fuel to make a living, work without interruption.
Before the truce, the Yemeni government imposed restrictions on the entry of fuel ships to Hodeidah, the main Houthi-controlled port of entry, causing recurring fuel shortages in Houthi-held areas. The supply of fuel increased during the ceasefire.
“Once the military hostilities declined, my sons found it easier to make and save money,” Mahmoud explains.
Before the truce, he says, “Yasser and Ali used to queue for three or four days to receive 40 litres of petrol.”
His father is confident that just as the two brothers were able to save enough to send him on Hajj, they will be able to save enough money to open a grocery store and build a better future for the family.
Over the course of a month, from May 21 to June 20, as part of a collaborative project, Mahmoud’s family tracked their monthly expenses. Here are the expenses that tested their finances the most.
Clothing for Eid
Eid al-Adha, a Muslim religious feast, falls on June 28 in Yemen. Mahmoud’s family will celebrate at home on the first day and then at the home of relatives. Since they could not afford to buy a sacrificial animal, they bought three kilogrammes of lamb from the butcher to cook dishes to enjoy over three days.
About two weeks before Eid, Ali went to the crowded Hael market in Sanaa’s central Maeen district to buy new Eid clothes for the children – three girls and three boys.
The oldest grandchild is Yasser’s eight-year-old daughter and the youngest is Ali’s nine-month-old baby girl. Ali spent 35,000 Yemeni riyals ($64) on dresses for the three girls and the boys’ shirts and trousers cost 30,000 Yemeni riyals ($55). Prices have gone up in the past year and he says he would have bought more complete outfits if they had a bigger budget.
“It is a big financial burden,” Ali says slowly. “But we cannot leave our children without new clothes during Eid. Our joy is seeing them happy.”
Mahmoud says it was a difficult decision for Yasser, Ali and their wives to not wear new clothes – an important part of Eid. “I know my Hajj journey decision made life harder for the entire family,” says Mahmoud, adding that it is important, however, for his grandchildren to be happy.
When Ali returned home with his purchases, the eldest children asked to wear their clothing immediately so Ali let them try on their outfits for a few minutes.
July 2022: Eid clothes for five children cost 55,000 Yemeni riyals ($100) according to Ali
June 2023: Similar clothes of the same brand for six children cost 65,000 Yemeni riyals ($120)
Mahmoud’s bus trip to Mecca
According to Yemen’s Ministry of Endowments, there are 24,255 Hajj pilgrims from Yemen this year. Every Yemeni pilgrim pays about 12,000 Saudi riyals ($3,197) in Hajj fees – which Mahmoud paid in April – to Yemen’s Ministry of Endowments, which transfers the amount to Saudi Arabia.
Pilgrims also bear the transportation charges. Mahmoud travelled by bus in the third week of June, paying 1,300 Saudi riyals ($346) for the three-day trip from Sanaa to Mecca. He also spent $100 on the ihram clothing – three white robes – and two shawls and brought a neck pouch for his passport, cash and his mobile phone.
July 2022: Nothing
June 2023: 1,300 Saudi riyals ($346)
Car repairs
While saving money for his father’s Hajj trip, Ali has also had to maintain his taxi, a white Toyota Corolla, which he tries to keep in good condition. Whenever he notices any issue, he will take it for inspection or repairs. “With this taxi, I feed myself and my family. That is why I spend money on its repairs when needed,” says Ali as he wipes the front windscreen. As he watches his son clean his car, Mahmoud says it’s better to not delay repairs or they could become more costly in the future.
In early June, Ali replaced the previous windscreen after cracks spread across it over the last few months. He thinks children playing in the neighbourhood accidentally hit it with a stone or ball. “The vehicle’s appearance is important, and its bad look may turn customers away. I am ready to spend less on my food or clothes to save for my car repairs,” he explains.
Saving for his father’s pilgrimage made affording repairs harder, and the price of spare parts, including windscreens, has risen in the past year.
On Thursdays, Ali likes to eat out on his own and orders his favourite dish, lamb or goat mandi with rice. It costs him 3,800 Yemeni riyals ($7). He dropped this treat in March to be able to replace the windscreen.
“I am aware of the sacrifices my sons have made since I told them about my Hajj decision,” Mahmoud says, adding that he is proud of them.
July 2022: Nothing
June 2023: 55,000 Yemeni riyals ($100) for a new windscreen
Gas cylinder
In early June, the gas cylinder in Mahmoud’s household began leaking, and gas could be smelled in the kitchen. They had had it since 2017. Hasna, who does most of the cooking and baking for both households, stopped using it, and for three days they bought bread from the bakery and takeaway food from restaurants until Ali bought a new gas cylinder, costing 32,000 Yemeni riyals ($60).
The family recognised there was a fault with the cylinder a few months ago. Yet, since they were prioritising saving for the Hajj trip, they kept delaying buying a new one until the leaking started.
“If we continued using the damaged gas cylinder, it would explode,” explains Ali. “We always use gas wisely and economically and avoid wasting it. But this time, the entire gas cylinder needs to be replaced.”
July 2022: Nothing. The price of a new full gas cylinder was 25,000 Yemeni riyals ($45) according to the shop owner where Ali bought the cylinder
June 2023: 32,000 Yemeni riyals ($60)
Formula milk
Yasser’s baby is 11 months old, and Ali’s is nine months old. They buy their infants two cans of formula milk every 10 days or six cans a month. Each can costs 3,300 Yemeni riyals ($6) and they spend about 19,800 Yemeni riyals ($36) on baby milk every month.
“Buying the powder milk is an inescapable task, and there is no way to convince these little kids to calm down when they feel hungry,” Ali says, smiling.
Ali always buys from the same pharmacy, and he knows the two pharmacists there. “Occasionally, I do not have enough money, and I ask them to record the unpaid amount so that I can pay them later,” he explains.
“The price of this kind of milk has increased since last year, and even a small price hike is a burden on people like us,” Ali says.
July 2022: Three cans of formula milk cost 8,400 Yemeni riyals ($15)
June 2023: 19,800 Yemeni riyals ($36) for six cans
Five quick questions for Mahmoud and Ali:
1. What is one thing you had to forgo this month? Mahmoud: Once every month, we [the entire family] eat lunch outside [in a restaurant]. Since March, we have not gone because that would put an additional financial burden on us.
2. What has been the most worthwhile expense from this month? Ali: My four-year-old son, Abdulrahman, repeatedly asked for a bicycle over the last six months. He wants to play on it at home. I kept promising to buy him one. Finally, I purchased it this month. When he saw it in my hand at home, he ran towards me, grabbed it, and began riding on it in the room. He was thrilled.
3. When finances get tough, what advice do you have? Mahmoud: Always avoid borrowing unless it is necessary. And before you spend, ask yourself whether this item is needed. Also, it is better to believe that hard times will pass and money will come as long as we avoid being idle and dependent on others.
4. What is your biggest money worry? Ali: My taxi is the source of my livelihood, and having any fault with it is a big worry.
5. What is the saving hack you are proudest of? Ali: I used to buy vegetables, such as tomatoes, potatoes, onions and cucumbers, daily from a shop near my house. That was the routine for many years. Six months ago, I went to a wholesale market and purchased vegetables, and the price was reasonable. Since then, I buy vegetables once a week, saving us 9,000 Yemeni riyals ($16) per month, which means 108,000 Yemeni riyals (about $196) a year.
**Since 2015, Yemen has been divided between the Houthi rebels, who control much of the north, including the capital, Sanaa, and the internationally recognised government, which is based in Aden. That has led to differing exchange rates for the Yemeni riyal, with the official rate in Houthi-controlled areas being about 550 Yemeni riyals and in government areas about 1,300 Yemeni riyals to $1. We have used the rate used in Sanaa.
Read more stories from the series: What’s your money worth?