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The other side of North Korea

Communist country is often described as the Hermit Kingdom, but government minders like to show a different side.

Kim Il Sung square is one of the most recognisable landmarks of this communist state. The square serves as the stage of military parades, and where North leaders are cheered by hundreds of thousands of devoted citizens during state celebrations. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
By Miguel Toran
Published On 24 Oct 201424 Oct 2014
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Pyongyang, North Korea – It’s the beginning of a new day in North Korea’s capital. Just before dawn, the only lights switched on on a downtown street are ones illuminating two huge portraits of the country’s founder Kim Il Sung and his son, Kim Jong Il.

A silent commuting crowd slowly emerges. Men and women dressed in dark suites descend upon the central district that houses government ministries and offices.

Buses are the mass transport of choice in this part of Pyongyang; old rusted ones from the 1960s share the road with brand new vehicles. Inside, silent passengers look out through mist-covered windows. 

At major intersections, female traffic police keep an eye on the few cars that drive through Pyongyang’s streets. They salute in military style to cars bearing government license plates. Traffic jams are a rarity.

In the city centre, Kim Il Sung square is one of the most recognisable landmarks of this communist state. The square serves as the stage of military parades, and here is where North Korean leaders are cheered by hundreds of thousands of its devoted citizens during state celebrations.

North Korea is often described as the Hermit Kingdom – a land of human rights abuses, labour camps, famine, and excesses of the Kim family dynasty.

But in the North Korean capital, there’s another side shown by government handlers to journalists, tourists and investors, one resembling growing modernity. Old apartment buildings built in the 1980s are being replaced by high-rise condominiums.

Mobile phones are widely used by North Koreans. At a local school chosen for a visit, students recite Hamlet instead of Stalin. Government minders at all times are eager to point out these changes are not reforms to the system, just new measures to improve it. 


RELATED: Rare glimpse inside North Korea security zone



Every major intersection has a female traffic police officer who snaps salutes at passing government vehicles. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
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A woman comes out of a subway station in Pyongyang, North Korea. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
Pedestrians walk on the street on their way to work. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A soldier covers his face in a street of Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A soldier is seen through a bus window in Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
Bicycles and buses remain the most popular mode of transport in the capital. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
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North Koreans are not used to foreigners with cameras and this gentleman took exception to his photo being taken. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A portrait of Kim Jong II at the main hall of the Grand People's Study House in Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A mother and her child on a street of Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
Construction workers keep busy as the capital modernises. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A soldier walks up an underground pass in Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
Three women clean and water a section of grass on a street of Pyongyang during sunrise. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
Commuters seen through a bus window. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]
A man looks through a window at a barbershop in Pyongyang. [Miguel Toran/Al Jazeera]


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